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Praetorium Honoris

Saturday, November 5, 2022

On the Waterfront

Schooners, Panama City Beach FL

A couple months ago Sarge or Juvat wrote something about nice views while dining on the water.   At least that's what I seem to remember. I looked in the archives for that post, but couldn't find the exact one (one of the few drawbacks to Sarge's daily postings).  It could have been something else that served as my muse, but that's how my brain works some days.  Today's post, somewhat of a fill in as a favor to Sarge, but also because I was inspired by that post, was written because I too enjoy a meal with a view of the water.  

Hotel Mafolie, St. Thomas USVI (Source)

Wherever I travel or wherever I live, I seek out nice restaurants that have a good view.  Sometimes the cuisine matches the view, and sometimes it doesn't (probably running a little better than 50/50 on that), but a good view can sometimes make up for it.  I've lived in quite a few places due to my military service, and so those views can very greatly.  They may be oceanfront, on a bay, a river or a lake.  It doesn't matter to me what kind of water it is; I enjoy them all, especially if they have a nice sunset.  So I will use this space to talk a little bit about those places and a little bit about how I feel while there.  Plenty of good memories from them.  

Hula Bay Club (source)

When I lived in Tampa there was a place on Tampa Bay called the Rattle Fish Grill.  It had a great outdoor deck with a decent view of the western side of the bay looking towards St Petersburg.  It had a definite Florida vibe, maybe with a Key West feel, although I've never been.  Outside of the fall and winter months, Tampa can be quite inhospitable for outdoor dining, somewhat due to the bugs, but mainly due to the heat and humidity.  Despite living in P'Cola for 2 years, Tampa for 3, and many visits for work in Panama City, I could never get used to the humidity.  However the grill had quite a few overhead fans and even those misters that made it bearable, if not rather comfortable.  There was an indoor seating area, but not for me when there's a view to be had.  When I was stationed there from '04 to '07 it was the go-to place for Hail and Farewells for people I worked with at CENTCOM.  Just as my PCS* was being scheduled, I heard they were planning on closing it and making it a private restaurant for the yacht club next door.  Apparently that plan failed after 6 months or so, and they opened it back up to the public with the new name.  I was able to go back for a trip some years later and it was just as good as I had remembered. 

Hula Bay view courtesy of Google

Another Florida locale is Uncle Ernie's in Panama City on the intercoastal waterway.  This one brings up fond memories of me barhopping by boat with friends on the same waterway in Pensacola back during flight school.  It was also the first time we used our timeshare points, which has led to two dozen memorable trips since then.

Your humble scribe and his family at Ernie's during a Spring Break trip a decade ago.

Uncle Ernie's after it was rebuilt following Hurricane Michael in 2018. (Google)

Living in the Pacific Northwest, on the Puget Sound, one would think that there were plenty of places that could provide me with a nice meal and a nice view, but this was not the case. Maybe if I lived on the Seattle side of the sound I might have found a few more, but over on the Kitsap Peninsula there was a dearth of them.  The Boat Shed was the lone exception.  On the approaches to Sinclair Inlet which the USS Carl Vinson took to get into Naval Station Bremerton, it had a view of the shipyard across the way, although those apartment buildings in the photos weren't there from what I remember.  


Bremerton Sunset (source for both)

A trip my wife and I took to St Thomas USVI earlier this year was excellent, our first time in  the Caribbean.  Being an island territory, there were many places to eat on the water.  And the water there is beautiful, with spectacular sugar-white sand beaches.  The food wasn't all that good, sub-par for the most part at a couple places we visited, probably because it doesn't need to be with such gorgeous views.

View from the pool bar and grill at our hotel

Maegen's Bay snack bar St. Thomas

There were a couple exceptions.  Prime at Paradise Point, at one of the highest points on the island, was excellent.  The views were panoramic, overlooking the bay in front of the Capital City, Charlotte Amalie, and as far as the western-most point on the island.  It had a great sunset too of course, but it was a bit hazy that evening so my photos of it weren't worthy of sharing here.

Prime view at Paradise Point

I have no idea how I did it, but I only scheduled our hotel, timeshare actually, for 6 nights vice 7.  So we were without a reservation for the last night before our flight out the next day.  Before we vacated the premises, I called a few places to see if they had any vacancies.  There actually weren't many available places as it was Spring Break, and COVID revenge travel after 2 years was in full effect.  Fortunately I found the Hotel Mafolie.  This was the view from our room where we ordered room service.  The restaurant, where we had breakfast the next morning was included in the cost of the room, and was the second photo in this post.  It was a great vacation so the water/food view combination in St. Thomas actually ranks very high on my list. 
   
Our room with a view at Hotel Mafolie

Another great food with a view experience was on a cruise to Mexico.  Always up for an adventure and not needing to take the well-worn and more expensive path that the other cruisers take, we got off the ship in Puerta Vallarta, followed some locals to a local bus, and hopped on.  Not really knowing where we were going, we took it into town further down the coast, a mile or so from the port.  We got off, walked a block or so, and found the best little restaurant right on the beach.  Tacos and margaritas just taste better on the beach in Mexico.




Living in San Diego, which is on the coast of course, as well as having a picturesque bay, we're lucky to have at least a dozen places that fit the bill.  One of my favorites on the bay was within walking distance of work, Mitch's Seafood.  They serve lunch from the fish that fishermen caught and unloaded right there at the marina earlier that day.  The eatery is still there, but I no longer work next door, having been "reorganized" to our HQ on Naval Station San Diego, which is not at all as picturesque as my old office in Pt. Loma

Mitch's Seafood where you can see the sea whilst having food.  (Source)

Besides Mitch's, you've got Tom Ham's Lighthouse, Coasterra, and a favorite of my family, Busters Beachhouse and Longboard Grill.  On the marina in SeaPort Village near the Midway Museum, my kids loved this place as it had a beachy vibe, surfboards as decorations, and pizza served on mini surfboards.  Unfortunately, the place closed a few months back as they are planning to redevelop the land, adding yet another hotel or two.

Google

Google

Chip VonBurg - Google

We also enjoyed Jake's Del Mar.  Went there for an anniversary dinner a few years back.  A slightly upscale eatery, Jake's has beachside dining with sand that tracks in from the doors to the beach.  

Jake's Del Mar - 

Mister A's is a upscale restaurant at the top of a building near downtown San Diego that not only offers the views, but the restaurant is level to the approach envelope for the San Diego airport, so you can look straight out and see airplanes coming in for a landing. I don't think we see it anymore, but both JAL and British Airways used to land 747s right around happy hour which was kind of a treat, even if you weren't into plane spotting.



Finally, we have my most favorite restaurant in all of San Diego- the Bali Hai. I definitely like my Hawaiian shirts and Asian / Polynesian inspired food, so this place, along with the great panoramic views of the bay, meets all my expectations.  And their Mai Tais are killer, almost literally- the menu even says they will only serve you two of them.  
I also like seeing the boats go by or watching helicopters and MV-22 Ospreys take off from North Island, which is just across the bay.




You know from my old Jets and Sunsets posts that I really enjoy a lovely orange and red-hued sunset.  It has some sort of a tranquil calming effect on me as I admire the beauty that is in God's majesty here on earth.  So I enjoy a well timed dinner that coincides with his craftsmanship.

There's a great line at the end of Forrest Gump when Forrest is describing the sunset to Jenny that he saw while running.  "I couldn't tell you where the heavens stopped, and the earth began."


Those restaurants all make me feel a little like I'm on vacation.  Give me a rum or coconut drink during dinner and I'm instantly transported to the beach, wearing my flipflops, soaking in the sun.  I've had a lot of meals on the water- sort of an occupational hazard having been in the Navy, but I prefer it when I'm on land, and have a view.  I'll obviously keep eating, and I'll also keep looking for great places for food with that view, preferably at sunset.  Any favorite places for waterfront dining from the readership?  I will add them to some list I need to start writing down.



 *Permanent Change of Station- aka, orders to somewhere else.

34 comments:

  1. We joke on board that one of the fringe benefits of moving oil on the water is that you have the best views in the world from your bathroom (which is the railing, much of the time). Eating al fresco, sadly, doesn't work out, what with the smell of oil and exhaust, and the noise, etc. BUT, I will share my favorite waterfront dining views to be had here (Shhhh!). Waterway Cafe, on the ICW in Palm Beach Gardens, FL, The Crazy Crab, on Passamaquoddy Bay, in Eastport ME (a treasure of a long weekend trip to visit), and Captain Kidd's in Woods Hole, MA.

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    1. That's funny! I got my love of sunsets during those dusk launches from the carrier so I agree with the best views comment. Thanks for the recommendations.

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  2. The views from Hotel Mafolie are beath taking Tuna, this post is a good way to start the day.

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    1. I saw a similar photo of the pool online. Turns out we had the exact same room. We loved the timeshare, but this was an unexpected treat.

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  3. Thank you for sharing the pictures and the experiences Tuna; they sound and look wonderful.

    The best view I ever saw for a meal was actually not a formal restaurant at all, although one could it there. It was the steps to Founder's Hall at Humboldt State University (now Humboldt State Polytechnic). On a good day at sunset, one could grab a piece of less than quality pizza from the student center, climb to the top of the stairs, and look out over Humboldt Bay with the brilliant colors of sunset as the sun sank into the Pacific. I have not been back to that place in a very long time, but can still picture it instantly in my mind.

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    1. I'll have to look for that view online. Somebody had to have posted it somewhere. Reminds me of the Spanish Steps in Rome- we grabbed some slices and a bottle of wine and had the nicest meal.

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  4. I don't know about recent years, but in the winter of '71/'72 (and for at least a couple of years thereafter) the chef from the City Island Yacht Club opened a small restaurant in St Thomas USVI: 4 star in anyone's book, but it doesn't meet your other requirement; it was nestled in the hills. It was there that my wife fell in love with rabbit and she's been trying to re-create (in a cream sauce) his recipe for the past fifty years.
    I'd like to say we've been the biggest non-commercial customer of the rabbit farm just down the road, but my neighbors up the hill keep most of the escapees down to a reasonable level locally and use five recipes that are all out-of-this world to feed their favored neighbors once a month in he warm weather.

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    1. I haven't tried to recreate good meals, but good drinks? I'm all over that- but usually they don't turn out as well.

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  5. BTW: in twenty-five years, prior to the invasion of the early California escapees (whose idea of four-star is Chipotle) I never found a decent (any stars) restaurant in the Greater Portland area, but one (believe it or not) in Eugene and two in Seattle, but nothing to shout about.

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    1. Any restaurants on the Willamette or Columbia with a view?

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    2. Was living 'bout ½ hr East of Portland between '92 to '20 'til I moved to a barrier island in SW Florida (from '68 to '92 was living in the Greater [or not] NYC area where I had to dine out in Manhattan [I know, I know: poor thang!] and became terribly spoiled) at least once a week [almost all the time on someone else's dime]. I don't have any desire to compare restaurants anywhere in Oregon (or, for that matter, anywhere in Washington state) with the better restaurants in Manhattan - Yes! my tastsebuds have been spoiled rotten; no arguments!
      Yes, there a couple with great views on the Columbia (one each side), but I'd hesitate to recommend the food; it's been a couple of years since I've been there (though I understand barbecued storefronts are quite the item around Portland).

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    3. Ahh yes, the BBQs were famous a couple years back. Sad how bad Portland has become, third-world-ish.

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  6. Quite Off-Topic: but why on earth (please pardon the language) did the Space Force ever decide to locate its graduate and postgraduate military school for officers at Johns Hopkins in Ballmer with a satellite campus in downtown Washington that'll host the Space Force’s intermediate and senior service school programs?

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    1. No idea. I didn't realize Space Force had anything that wasn't USAF.

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    2. Not a chance that politics, and especially a demand to ensure support of "diverse" communities had anything to do with it. Nope, not a chance!
      John Blackshoe

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  7. Those pictures a amazing! I ate at Snoopy's down in Corpus during a red tide. The gray water and sand, the pungent smell of dead fish. At least the fish and chips didn't taste like the air did. As a beef eater and a flat lander from the high plains, I didn't understand the allure of coastal dining. Some of my favorite memories of eating outside were soggy pancakes in the rain in boy scouts and dinners on the porch from my childhood at the kinfolks. South Texas is a lot like FL in the summer. Your food is salty from all the sweat pouring off you if you eat outside.

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    1. I get it, but most coastal dining doesn't have the smelly ambiance. Southern heat? Ugh- misters and fans are a must.

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  8. Great post! The photos are wonderful. I believe the best restaurant view I ever had was on top of the Zugspitze outside of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. A bit far to visit nowadays...
    -Barry

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    1. I still have more travel ahead of me so I'll add it to the list.

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    2. If you do get to G-P; you MUST eat at Zum Wildeschutz. You should also buy at least a litre of Wildsautropf since cold-and-flu season is coming.
      Boat Guy

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  9. Incredible views at most of those places. Food can be "okay" if the venue is good.

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  10. Yes definitely- food can almost be lousy if the view is exceptional. I didn't add that place we visited on the water in Lil Rhodey, mainly because we didn't have the view while eating.

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  11. At Kwajalein, there was a 'scenic' pier that went out over the reef on the surfside. About 1/3rd the way out, there was a really nice restaurant called, I believe, the Oceanside (military people are sooo imaginative...) Good views of whatever was going on outside weatherwise, including spectacular evenings (it was on the east side of the island, so no sunsets) and storms and all the various tide stages. Really nice feature was the ability, after dinner, to walk the whole length of the pier, which extended almost to the end of the reef and the inevitable thousands of feet drop down into the deep ocean. On a quiet ocean day you could look down into the water and see fish swimming 50-100 feet below. Food was rather good also.

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    1. Nice! Unfortunately I don't think I'll get the chance to visit that one. haha.

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    2. Sadly, the pier collapsed and the restaurant went away, unless they rebuilt it.

      But if you ever get a chance to go to Micronesia, take it. Beautiful place mostly not spoiled by man.

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  12. Great pictures! We love eating on the water here in Central/NorthFlorida. Our favorite place blew away with Matthew, our next favorite blows away less (it’s a less complicated place). It’s in for repair just now after Ian paid us a recent visit, but they’ll be heating up the grease soon for the shrimp and hush pups - “High Tides at Snack Jacks”! I never have figured out the name, there is no ambiance, except of course, the ocean twenty yards away.

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    1. https://www.snackjacks.com/ Looks like my kind of place! That cover photo on the website is enough for me. Bucket of suds, some boiled or fried shrimp sounds like it would taste really good there.

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  13. Crusty Old TV Tech here. Two places come to mind. It's probably not there anymore, but there was a nice taverna on Lake Voulismeni in Agios Nicolaos east of Iraklion AS, Crete. The views of the fishing boats, the whitewashed buildings, the beautiful lake with a little short channel to the blue Aegean...man, great duty! Second, the Monument Inn on the Houston Ship Channel. Near the San Jacinto Battleground Monument, views of the huge ships heading up to the industries on the Channel, nice. Fantastic food.

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    1. Not sure if Crete is in my future, but Houston could be! Thanks for the suggestion.

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  14. Wanted to mention two places for mostly Navy people. First is Fenwick Pier, Hong Kong. You could sit at the McDonalds and enjoy your burger and a brew and watch the plethora of watercraft crisscross Victoria Harbour. Actually, many vantage points around Victoria Harbour with great views, catch a snack from numerous food carts. Second is at Naval Station Guam, not sure if this venue is still active. It was a hole in the wall that I suppose was run by Navy MWR. It overlooked Apra Harbor, mostly stop there for a beer or two. Seem to recall that it was in an out of the way area of Navsta Guam. Jim.

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  15. Thanks Jim. I admit to having McDonald's there, although one of my favorite Broad Side cartoons is "Sailors enjoying the local Hong Kong cuisine" all lined up outside of McDonald's.

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    1. Best waterfront McDonald's is along the Marginal between Lisbon and Parede Portugal. Right on the beach
      BG

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    2. Lots of other great sunset views in Portugal, but you take your life in your hands driving to them.
      BG

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