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Praetorium Honoris

Thursday, May 7, 2026

Updated from 2014: Le Carte es Merde

 


So, there I was....* Retired from the Air Force almost 22 years now. My first non-Air Force job was working in a school district providing IT support after teaching computer science for a couple years. Stayed there for about 20 years (qualified for a second retirement paycheck). Now am retired retired.  During the teaching years we also owned and profitably sold two wine related retail businesses which introduced me to some fine friends, two of whom owned one of the finest wineries in Texas.  In fact their 2006 Syrah was rated as one of 12 Excellent wines in the United States. We enjoy wine, so having friends in the industry has its perks. Unfortunately, since this is a rerun from 12 years ago, some things have changed, Gary, the winemaker in the pictures passed away a year or so ago.  Good Friend and we miss him.
 
Several years ago, the four of us decided fly to France and vacation with two other friends stationed nearby.  For various reasons, November had worked for our busy schedules.  Their harvest was over and the hectic activities in the crush have slowed down.  School had started and we'd gone through a couple of grading cycles so except for the occasional paper jam, most of the teacher technological panic attacks have slowed way down. So, November it is.

Destination--France.  Unlike Sarge, I've never been assigned to Europe and but thanks to a few TDYs, have been able to visit a bit.  Enough to want to go back. Paris, the City of Lights will be our base camp with day trips to various areas of interest around the country.

Vacation has arrived and we have arrived at CDG (AKA Charles de Gaulle Airport), transitioned to the train, then to the subway and have arrived at our hotel near the Ecole Militaire.  Check in was mercifully quick and we head to the elevator to go to our rooms.  The elevator was quaint.  You had a choice.  Either you, or your bags, could use the elevator, not both.  I go up.  Mrs. Juvat loads bags from below, then joins me.  "You Americans! This is not a bug, but a feature!"

Knowing that jet lag is minimized by staying awake until bed time in the new time zone, we go walking about.  

 
Given that this was the view from our hotel room, we decide on where we are going.




We spend the next couple of days exploring Paris with all the usual suspects.


We saw some pretty ladies.


Go to Church.


Drink some wine.

For some reason, this resonates with my twisted sense of humor.





Spend a lot of time consulting maps.




Even ask for directions.  This fellow was helpful.

We did not get lost. I've never been "lost", that position where you don't know where you are, nor how to get where your going, or even how to figure out where you were.  Nope never!

A low level fly by of a ROKAF runway was simply a matter of practicing airfield attack tactics.  Their calls on Guard questioning my identity simply confirm the effectiveness of my tactics.

Gratuitous Airplane Shot
Source RCGroups.com
 
I digress.  We have successfully navigated a very large city.  It is time to expand our horizons.  We decide to visit Reims.  As I said earlier, having wine makers as friends has it's perks.  We are going to get a private tour of Veuve Clicqout

 
Not usually a fan of Champagne, but this was excellent.

I wonder if they'd miss just one.
 
Successfully returned to our hotel, we plan the next day trip,  I'd always heard about the beaches in France, so we decide to visit one.



This beach is named for a town in Nebraska. Big Red One visited here. Quite a few decided to stay.



Returned from that trip, sobered, but emboldened of our navigational abilities, we decide we want to sample wine from the Loire Valley. We take a train to the town of Tours because that's what we want to do.( I know, "try the veal, I'll be here all week.")

Rent a car and drive to Chinon,  a French Castle astride the Vienne River near Anjou.



With drawbridges on either end, the castle has instant moat protection from an attack.  It was interesting, the gardens are beautiful, but it's time to find wine!  The castle gift shop has a map purporting to have all the local wineries on it.  I purchase it and we hop in the car and are off. The ladies are in the back seat and as good back seaters they have assumed the navigational responsibilities.  We get back on the road and they tell me to start looking for a major highway which we will cross.  We find it and do.  A defined starting point.  They tell me to drive for about 10km when we will come to a village.  We do.  "Take a right, 10 km to next village".  "Take a left".  "We should be coming into village named  xxx".  I can't find anything that says what village we're in at all.  Continue on in this manner for a while and finally come into a village on a river.  It's about lunch time, and we spy an Auberge.

We decide we'll stop and get lunch and ask directions while we're there.

We walk in the front door and are greeted, in French, by the Maitre D', the waiter, the proprietor, cook and busboy. He was a busy man.


He speaks no English.  There are several, male patrons in the Auberge, one of whom comes up to us and says "I speak English!". Great,  I ask him if the restaurant is open and could we get lunch.  He says "I speak English! Your wife is sexy!"  Well, I think so, but....Those phrases seems to be his version of my fluency in 22 languages (the ability to order a beer and find a restroom, neither of which I particularly need at this time).

I pantomime an eating gesture and the Maitre D', the waiter, the proprietor, cook and busboy takes us to a table.  A couple of minutes later, he brings out a terrine of something and cuts off a slice, placing it on my plate.  Points at it and pantomimes eating.  Now, I've eaten balut and lived to tell about it, I'm not intimidated.  I cut a piece of what is probably the innards of some long dead animal and commence to chow down.  The bar erupts in cheers and clapping.  Having passed whatever test was presented to us, we are now old friends,  Wine is poured, food is served and lunch goes on for quite a while.  At some time, I approach my new friend, (the all in one Maitre D'...) with my map and explain our situation.  With the wine consumed at lunch, my friend's English and my French are improving rapidly, or maybe it was the pointing at the map and scrunching my shoulders while lifting my hands.  In any case, We've communicated and he starts unfolding the map from where I had opened it to our supposed location. And unfolds, and unfolds, and unfolds.  Evidently, we are about 30 miles from where we thought we were.


I point to where we think we are, and he shakes his head and points at the location on the map.  I look at him quizzically and he responds "Le Carte es Merde!" (Google translate does a reasonable job on the statement.) 

I point to one of the bottles of wine we'd consumed and then pointed at the map with my patented "Where the hell are we?" gesture, and he points out where the winery is and the route necessary to arrive there.  We pay our bill, thank him profusely and get back in the car. Crank it up and promptly turn the wrong way.

I don't get very far when I realize my error and turn around.  Drive past the Auberge and the clientele is outside, bent over in laughter!

My friend the English speaker on the right


We manage to find the winery and taste some very fine Vouvray.






I am certain that should we find our way back to that Auberge, they will still be talking about the Americans that came to visit.
 
We had a great time, visited quite a few places I wanted to visit, drank some excellent wine and made a few friends.  In other words, an excellent vacation.  I highly recommend it.
 
Peace out, y'all! 
 
*Standard Fighter Pilot beginning to a story which may or may not be completely true! 

14 comments:

  1. We like France. The Loire valley is particularly lovely. The Stone Age monuments in Brittany made us just whistle in appreciation. Etc, etc.
    Enjoy it while you may, folks, before it becomes another Islamic Republic.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Dearieme,
      I agree. Especially about the Loire Valley. Haven't made it to Brittany, but that sounds interesting, so might encourage another visit. If your last sentence doesn't come to fruition. Please Lord!
      juvat

      Delete
  2. Nice selection for a re-telling juvat, extended foreign Road Trip! One wonders about changes over there since then......

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Nylon,
      We weren't looking for any changes, but didn't encounter any either. But given that that visit was 12 years ago...We didn't notice anything on the Rhone River Cruise this year, but that probably didn't go through anywhere that the bastiges would need to convert first, AKA Paris.So...
      juvat

      Delete
  3. Thanks for sharing your other French adventures, Juvat! You encourage me to think about traveling to France.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. THBB,
      It IS an interesting country. Paris has a lot of things to see but it IS a big city in every way. The countrysidy however is fabulous and beautiful! Highly recommend a visit.
      juvat

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    2. Oh…and the people outside of Paris are very outgoing, friendly and helpful!
      juvat

      Delete
    3. The Loire is a lovely part of the world, we spent a few holidays there when the children were younger, what you said about people outside Paris being friendly rang true. Just saying 'bonjour' on entering a shop or restaurant and attempting to speak French is a good move. I did find the locals didn't respond well to people in cars with Parisian plates, for some reason they weren't too keen on Belgians either, something to do with their driving ability which coming from the French is a bit rich.
      Your maitre d has the look of a man who plays scrum half for his local rugby team and is not averse to a bit of skulduggery.
      Retired

      Delete
  4. Another fine addition to my vicarious vacation to Europe! Quite enjoyable, and without the annoying time zone changes or hassles of lingua franca instead of English.
    JB

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks JB, my pleasure!
      juvat

      Delete
  5. Whenever I see "So there I was ..." I can't help thinking "Once upon a time..." or "In a galaxy, far, far away..."

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes...Well...It IS the starting sentence of a Fighter Pilot's War stroy.

      ;-)

      juvat

      Delete
  6. In 1976 I spent time in Paris and then down the Loire River with my high school French teacher and twelve other students from my school. We had a Blast! Sister Mary Therese was six feet tall, with grey and silver hair, and a classic beauty. She wore navy suits with white blouses instead of the long habit. She dragged us all over Paris, except for the Eifel Tower, which was closed and guarded by armed guards, due to terrorist threats. Armed guards in the Louvre, inside and outside Sacre Cours, etc. Once we left Paris we didn't see any more guards. The chateaux were all gorgeous, the food was strange & wonderful, most people were very friendly. I'd go back in a heartbeat!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Mary F,
      Sorry this is late. Sounds like you had an excellent trip in High School. Had quite a bit of Nun instruction on things different than "Readin, Writin' and Rithmatic". Didn't particularly like it back in the day, but now recognize they were definitely going beyond their duties as Teachers and doing it well.
      Thanks
      juvat

      Delete

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