A Rose By Any Other Name...

Tall Ships in the San Diego dusk

I first saw her many years ago, in the fall of '99. I was on the Naval Base, arranging to have our household goods delivered to our just-purchased home. After 24 years in the service of my country, I was settling into civilian life.

The light fails as we prepare to go onboard.

The metal brow seems out of place alongside this ancient warship.

The San Diego skyline looks out of place.

I walked out of the Transportation Office and headed to my car, it was a gorgeous day on Narragansett Bay, mostly sunny, a brisk wind coming in off the Atlantic. As I looked out at the Bay, I saw something quite special, something ancient, something I had never seen before.

She was square rigged, with three masts, sailing up the Bay under full sail. I stopped with mouth agape as I beheld this wonder from the Age of Sail. My gut told me she was a frigate, based on her size and the single line of gun ports along her side. I watched her for quite some time, enjoying the spectacle until I realized that I had other errands to run that day. The new home wasn't going to arrange itself!

Back then she was called HMS Rose. I saw her later that same day tied up to the pier at the Yacht Museum, of all places. Built in Lunenburg up Nova Scotia way in 1970, she was operated as a sail training vessel from 1985 to 2001. Her namesake had patrolled the waters of Narragansett Bay back in the days leading up to the Revolution. The old stories say that her fight to suppress smuggling in the waters around Rhode Island led to the formation of what would become the United States Navy.

Seems fitting somehow.

Your Humble Scribe playing the old sea dog.

Somewhere along the way Rose was acquired by a movie company, refitted to look somewhat different than she did originally and renamed HMS Surprise. a fictional ship from the series of novels by Patrick O'Brian (most of which were for sale at the Maritime Museum, surprise, surprise. Pun intended). She looks a bit different than she did back in '99, but it was good to see the old girl again. Damn good indeed!

Yeah, like I know what I'm doing. Good thing she's tied to the pier!

The gun deck has been modified to make more head room amidships. Can't fire those cannon now.

Pikes for repelling boarders.

Interesting stuff. Originally the Rose's armament consisted of 20 9-pounder cannon, ten per broadside.

There are a few stills from the film Master and Commander, The Far Side of the World scattered throughout the gun deck. Provides some nice context.

The Captain's cabin. As there were no Marines aboard to guard it, they used Plexiglas instead to keep the riffraff out.

Another scene from the film.

No, the original wasn't covered with chicken wire. Probably wasn't out in the open either but below under the watchful eye of the Master at Arms.

I'm sure the Royal Navy served the crew à la carte. I do like the idea of a beer ration.

Model of the ship.

North Island from one of the gun ports. Amidst the bright lights to the left are the USS Theodore Roosevelt and the USS Carl Vinson.

The Star of India from the same gun port. In the distance is the USS Midway, which I'll make time to visit someday.

The galley. The Nuke made a point of checking that bellows, good naval officer that she is, it was non-operational.

The bowsprit against the lights of San Diego

Yes, rigging is complicated and yes, each of those ropes (lines in modern nautical parlance) serves a specific purpose. While I understand that there are two types of rigging, standing and running, I am at a loss to explain the many and varied functions of each. Lubber that I am.

A view of the main fighting top. The first platform going aloft on the mainmast. From here Marines would snipe at the officers and crews of opposing ships.

The mainmast, looking aft towards the quarterdeck.

The figurehead of Surprise.

She's a fine ship. I hope to see her again someday.